Here's the TWO SENSORS YOU NEED TO REPLACE FOR BETTER IDLE !!
Here’s the TWO SENSORS YOU NEED TO REPLACE FOR BETTER IDLE !!
Replacing The Idle Air Control Valve And O2 Sensor Gave Me Better Idle.
In today’s video I’m on the search for a better idle for my 1995 GMC Suburban. This truck is in great shape and has only 83k miles as of the making of this video. But, the idle is poor. It’s rough. Not enjoyable while sitting at a stoplight. So, based on many comments from previous videos I decided to order a brand new Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) as well as an O2 sensor.
The vehicle in this video is a 1995 GMC Suburban which is the same as the Chevrolet Suburban. The GMT400 platform sometimes referred to as an OBS.
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Here’s the Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) I used in this video: https://amzn.to/3c77ig8
Here’s the Idle Air Control Valve used in this video: https://amzn.to/33xPu9S
Here’s the DAP Rapid Fuse Glue: https://amzn.to/35HOHWO
http://www.1roadgarage.com
***This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!***
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.
This is one of the BEST videos ever made…..great work….let it re-learn….smart to use original parts.
All this bla bla bla and work we still don’t know what was the real problem.
Lots of extra non essential talking
Can we conclude that your poor idle was caused by leanness? Either the iacv was stuck open and let in too much air, or the oxygen sensor didn’t sense enough air so the system reduced the fuel. Or both.
"i’m gonna spend 10 mins explaining why I’m not gonna start it between changing parts for your informational needs, rather than just taking 2 seconds starting the truck"
Shotgunning several parts at once is bad troubleshooting practice. Maybe I would like to identify the actual faulty part.
Who’s the youtuber Chris???
I have a 14 yr old truck that I bought from my mother when my father passed. I didn’t initially want to buy it because I had a much newer Toyota with 1/3 the miles. My mother wanted me there when people would come to test drive it. After a couple people came and beat the crap out of the truck on test ride that were clearly joy rides. I said enough, I would buy the truck for the asking price. I sold my Toyota and bought my father’s 2010 GMC Sierra with 143k miles on it. It was my father’s baby. I just couldn’t imagine it being registered to a stranger. I was much happier knowing that the truck was only registered to my father and myself. Then I realized I had named my son after my father and it would be awesome if I could keep this truck going for 10 more years so I could pass it on to him. Now my goal is to have it go from father to son, father to son. I have been systematically going through everything. I have been replacing sensors left and right because they are cheap and I am more than capable of the work. Last weekend I pulled the intake manifold because I just wanted to replace the gaskets for the valley cover and the intake manifold, so I also did the oil pressure sensor while I was there. So many people are always confused why you replace a 14 yr old part because you could save $32. I would rather replace it while I’m there and know the age and mileage of the part. I keep a log of what I replace and when as well as mileage and if I can read the parameters with my scan tool, I enter those as well. I have rock solid baselines to reference as well as maintenance records with specific breakdown fluid brand, type and reasoning for selection. My vehicle isn’t about doing the minimal to get by, it’s about future proofing on a long term plan. I disabled DOD electronically, with HP tuners, but this coming spring, I am going to do the full delete to ensure reliability that GM destroyed with the pressure for the EPA and possibly planned obsolescence. 😂. I have a surplus of functioning parts that have miles on them now. Each one logged with date of replacement and cleaned, sealed in zip locks and put in totes in my shop. Now if I’m in pinch, I have a plan B easily available and if a part gets discontinued or is no longer produced, I still have an option. Or my son will have an option that others would not. I can’t wait to teach him and my daughter how to fix anything just like my father taught me. My 8yr old daughter and 6yr old son already have more knowledge and tools than most adults in regard to cars. I have been teaching them how to use bi-directional scan tools. They learn it easier than I did.😂😂😂. I love your channel, because you address things like the guy with a long term plan should, not just the cheap fix. Great content, keep up the great work on that beautiful truck and keep enjoying those payment free years. 😂😂👍👍👍
Help!! My 1991 5.7 TBI won’t idle, runs rough. Spark plugs are black with carbon build up. I replaced the injectors, all sensors, plugs, coil, distributor module. Timing is only 2 degrees advanced from 0. What am I missing? When I unplug either side injector it idles smooth and when I plug it back in, it goes back rough and dies.
Why not just get rid of the iac?
I have real bad OCD right now so why wouldn’t you want to have known which one it was you should have done it one at a time I’m getting very stressed! LOL 🙄
You’re one lucky soooon of aaaa “ BEEP”. Oppps you know how YouTube is with bad words.😂😂😂😂
Throw a couple parts at it any time you feel like there’s too much money in the savings account & bag of zip ties..
Definitely better than a monthly payment the depreciates 5000.00 as soon as you sign the the loan agreement.
Which is completely ridiculous what they’re asking for a brand new 3/4 or 1 ton pick up truck.
Ever notice its the guy with the clip board that shows up on the job that shows up with the most caple work truck that he’ll never use in 3 of his life times .
Dont drive your car and film at the same time.
I have a 1995 Chevy Cheyenne ext cab, 5.7L, 5spd on the floor and these vids actually are a great help. My truck has 95,000 miles, one owner and was parked for 2 years. I’m still working the bugs out and am so grateful for YouTube and you.
If you’re not Scotty I don’t give a s***!!!
The IAC plug is easy/cheap to replace. I’ve done it on my vehicle.
Too much talk
Honest humble ppl always receive mysterious secret mysterious ❤ gift from above.
Will a bad o2 sensor throw out your timing
Only one O2 sensor on your car?
Thanks for your great honest sharing.
From a professional technician I would say to start up your truck first after replacing the first part due to the fact that many parts arrive DOA and if you replace multiple parts and the issue is fixed or not fixed you will not really know which part was bad or if you received a bad part and as you state "you just don’t know". I had the same issue on my ford edge sport with a bad idle giving a code for a O2 sensor but I was familiar with the issue and low and behold it was the purge valve which was the easiest to replace (15 mins). On a 2014 Nissan maxima with the same issue it was a gas cap, and I had to put back the old purge valve because the one I received from Amazon was bad.
Any ideas of vg33e model 1999
had a 92 Mercedes that idled around 1800 was told by a Mercedes shop that it would be around 1500 dollars that weekend I spray cleaned the throttle body and took the battery out over night and bingo the idle went back to 750
Everything’s cheap if you’re a famous YouTuber 100 bucks for an oxygen sensor is not cheap to me
Flip that air cleaner lid over and let her breathe
Here’s why you don’t mess with your factory sensors
Yap yap yap
If your idling is still rough after all that but rpm is not going up and down, then are the engine mounts that needs replacement
You need to replace your ABS sensors. See that light on your dash about brakes.
I don’t know why you would ever use a crescent wrench to take an oxygen sensor out if it was in there really tight are hard to get out you drown the head off of the oxygen sensor and then really really screwed
At last – someone who speaks clearly and concise on how to fix the problem, so easy to follow. Thanks mate…
i used to get rough idle on my 91 buick regal custom sounded like it was gonna ex plode, then changed iac and o2 sensor, smooth purr oh man i loved that car.
SHOTGUN!
Give Chris he is a beast
Ease up on the coffee ☕
I was cleaning my IAC valve for the last few years and then suddenly when it got below freezing like in the 20s My 2003 Buick century had a super high idle. I finally Broke down and spent the $30 and just got another one. lol
Hey can you help me my car Max petrol n oil KIA picado
Thank you
Clearly narrated. Well done.
correct me if I am wrong but I think an "Idle Air control valve" is not a sensor..
depin and replace the connector with a cut harness piece
4 years since that videos gotta change them again lol
You don’t use the right tool very bad.
Poor video,
"…the ‘trouble’ to start your truck"?? No, you replace one part, and only one part, and then start the engine to see if it helped. Even if it didn’t ‘fix’ the problem, it’s valuable to know whether it played a contributing role ‘toward’ a fix. That’s just basis diagnostics 101. A few seconds to start the vehicle, listen, shut it off, and then walk away with a sense for whether what you’d done was even called for. Remarkable that you’d think anything other than that. Makes you vid less useful.
The only thing that annoys me about my Toyotas, an oxygen sensor that actually works correctly isn’t “cheap enough”, $200+ for the original denso. Lots of stuff aftermarket is just fine, but cheap oxygen sensors won’t give the right readings for Toyota and cause all kinds of issues without immediately triggering a code. Seeing a sea of essentially the same part for $20 all over the place is frustrating.
It’s now normal 👍
The fragility of the plastic and rubber hoses and components under constant extreme heat from the engine mixed with age really makes me think positively of a Tesla or other EVs, if the battery lasted longer or easily replaceable it would be revolutionary.
LMAO 🤡